May 10, 2013 Logonoro, Spain big city #2
(Ok I’ve. Lost 4 writings to you all so sorry I’m learning)
We walked into town in the rain exhausted, happy (goofy actually) and overwhelmed. By farthest the hardest part of these walks is walking into a city. Many people call ahead for spaces but our phone does not work here and do not have that option at least yet…. Yesterday was a miracle. Our friend copper was on the street and could guide us to her hotel/ hostel. This morning we had hoped to stay another day but by 10:00 am they were already full. STRESS. Now we need to check into the municipal hostel and I worry about room. We are tired. Daisy is still sick and what I am learning is that this trail cannot hold the numbers of people walking it. This is a growing activity to walk this trail. What seams like 100’s of people were actually over 175,000 people last year especially during the months of June, July and August. Apparently it is even more crowded, it is May and everything is always full and overflowing. We are part of the crowd.
We lined up in front of the Alburge an hour before it opened at 13:00. It is now 14:30 and I believe all the spaces are full. I have parked myself in the kitchen to write to all of you. Thank you for your friendship and support! Wow! It is an online party and yes we will have a slide show when we are back.. I will do my best at posting pictures. But I spend hours sometimes just getting something posted. I am trying this app called pages to copy and paste into the blog……meanwhile, Daisy is posting pictures on Instagram. Search her name and you will find her. She is my tech support.
Today is a rest day.
We have walked 97 miles so far under sun, rain and clouds. We made it over the Pyrenees mountains, a gorgeous wild and rugged landscape that I have fallen in love with. It is truly wild and I could easily return to explore…. We have eaten nettles, and wild onions in my sandwiches and Daisy’s in Daisy’s hair along with Hawthorne flowers and the yellow flowers, descendants of wild lettuce..
We have walked into hill country which has meandered into open spaces at times. We have walked by acres and acres of wheat fields. We have watched the wind tickle the fruiting tops of wheat and I Kelley have spent hours wondering about the agricultural practices that I see. We have walked by what I believe to be ancient olive trees that in the states one would consider “old growth” as well as wine grape orchards with stumps so thick you can also only guess that they are hundreds of years old- no exaggeration- because when you see the younger vines the older vines, there is just nothing to compare to….
So many castles, so many ruins,, so many stone- Roman made bridges and this Camino road winds its way across this landscape in and out of towns and it has been this way for hundreds of years. It is my understanding that historically, more people walked this pilgrimage than people do now…… I don’t know where they stayed or if the standard was differentfor sleeping or what.
A few tidbits.. I met a family with an 8 month baby on the trail. They are taking it a day at a time. I believe the oldest person I have met is 80 years old. Steady. Perhaps walking 2.5 kilometers an hour…. The fast walker is 7 kilometers an hour. The steady “fast pace seams to be 5 kilometers an hour. They have very light packs. Daisy and I are moving up from two miles and hour to 2.5 miles and even 3 miles an hour about 4 kilometers an hour. We continue to lighten our load. Sometimes accidentally. We have both lost our only long sleeve shirts. Daisy a sock. I am learning to carry less food which is very heavy and to drink more water in general. We are trying to drink 5 quarts a day each. We continue to meet people from different parts of the world a seventy year old Korean woman danced for us in an Alburgee. Beautiful! She is traveling with her husband and children in there late 20’s and early 30’s. we have met two father/son groups. We continue to meet lots of travelers from Brazil. Recently I met a woman from Iceland and one from Youglaslavia. More people from different places in the world all the time…. Lastly I have learned that a few convicts in Spain may walk the Camino (with police) arrive Finesterra go in and out of the water 7 times, have their clothes burned and then walk back and are give a kind of pardon. This is an active tradition with a few of the lucky chosen. Another interesting thing. In Spain you may walk the Camino for extra credit in School and if there are two people applying for the same job with very similar credentials, but- one of those people have walked the Camino, that person gets the job. In fact I have met people on the Camino now who are only walking this trail because it will help them get a job. (They are from Spain)
So why are we all doing this? Another question or is it the same question? another time…..xo, Kelley